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A Leisurely Walk through Jeonju Hanok Village

By Choi Woo-jung

The best way to enjoy Jeonju is to do it slowly. Packed with more than 700 traditional Korean houses, the city’s Jeonju Hanok Village offers visitors a chance to leave behind their hectic routines and appreciate a lazy walk through the diverse historic sites scattered throughout this largest traditional housing complex in the country.

Jeonju Hanok Village Bursting with Life and Vigor

Jeonju Hanok Village is not a staged traditional village frozen at a certain point in history. It is a living space where people pursue their daily routines in an active interaction with the surrounding tangible and intangible environment. Every corner of the village is alive with people and brimming with energy and vitality.

Jeonju Hanok Village is also rich in historical sites and monuments. These include Gyeonggijeon Shrine, which houses the portrait of the founder of the Joseon Dynasty; Pungnammun Gate, the main gate of Jeonju Fortress; Jeondong Cathedral, a Catholic church erected on the spot where the country’s first case of martyrdom took place; Jeonju Hyanggyo, a traditional secondary education center serving the region; and Omokdae, a steep hill where Yi Seong-gye, later known as King Taejo, celebrated a onesided victory over Japanese marauders in 1390 on his way to Gaegyeong, the capital of the Goryeo Dynasty (918–1392)

Gyeonggijeon, a Shrine for Taejo’s Portrait

The portrait of King Taejo, the founder of
the Joseon Dynasty, enshrined at Gyeonggijeon
Shrine


Jeonju is the ancestral home of Yi Seong-gye, or King Taejo, where the Jeonju Yi clan resided until Taejo’s great grandfather, Yi An-sa (?–1274) moved to northeast Korea. After establishing the Joseon Dynasty in 1392, King Taejo ordered Gyeonggijeon (Historic Site No. 339 on the national list) constructed in his ancestral seat to enshrine his portrait during the commemoration of the new dynastic foundation. The name Gyeonggijeon means “a blissful land where a new dynasty originated.” The main hall of Gyeonggijeon still houses the portrait of King Taejo (National Treasure No. 317 on the national list). What is notable within this image of Taejo wearing an official royal robe and hat is a five-clawed dragon, the symbol of a king, ornamenting the chest and each shoulder.

The Gyeonggijeon compound also includes Jogyeongmyo Shrine (Tangible Heritage No. 16 on the provincial list) dedicated to Yi Han, the progenitor of the Jeonju Yi clan, and his wife from the Gyeongju Kim clan; the placental chamber of King Yejong (Folklore Material No. 26 on the provincial list), the eighth monarch of Joseon; and the Royal Portrait Museum, which provides an integrated view of the history of Gyeonggijeon and displays the royal portraits of Joseon rulers such as Sejong, Yeongjo, Jeongjo, Cheoljong, Gojong, and Sunjong. Gyeonggijeon Shrine is now being opened to the public at night from May as part of the Evening Heritage Promenade program, and in October a reenactment of the enshrinement parade for Taejo’s portrait will be conducted.




Gyeonggijeon Shrine, built in commemoration of the founding of Joseon

Pungnammun, a Resolute Guardian for Jeonju

Pungnammun (Treasure No. 308 on the national list) is the name of the south gate of Jeonju Fortress, the administrative seat of Jeolla-do Province during the Joseon era. Among the four portals of the fortress, it is the only one to survive to the present. Originally constructed during the Goryeo era, Pungnammun was damaged during the Japanese invasion of 1597 and then reduced to ashes by a fire in 1767. It was rebuilt in 1768 under the orders of the governor Hong Nak-in. This was also when it acquired the name Pungnammun. The south gate of Jeonju Fortress is characterized by the columns spanning the first and second tiers of the wooden superstructure. While Jeonju Fortress was demolished according to an edict to eliminate fortresses issued by Japanese colonialists in 1907, Pungnammun Gate still stands as the sole remaining evidence of the fortress in the bustling old center of Jeonju.

Jeondong Cathedral, a Sacred Place Remembering Korea’s First Martyrs

Jeondong Cathedral, situated at the entrance
of Jeonju Hanok Village

Jeondong Cathedral (Historic Site No. 288 on the national list) stands across from Gyeonggijeon Pavilion at the start of the central east-west road of Jeonju Hanok Village. A Catholic church of great historical significance, it was built on the site where in 1791 two early Korean Christians, Yun Ji-chung and Gwon Sang-yeon, were the first in the country to face the brutal fate of martyrdom. The church is a fine example of Romanesque architecture noted for its beautiful curves and immense grandeur. The 12-windowed central belfry with twin domed towers standing at either side of the central spire has been praised as one of the most aesthetic attributes of the building.

Jeonju Hyanggyo, a Traditional Education Center

Jeonju Hyanggyo was a public secondary education institute during the Joseon era. Architecturally, it consists of two separate spaces, one for rituals with Daeseongjeon Shrine at its center, and another for study centering around Myeongnyundang Hall. Within the compound stand five ginkgo trees, which are resistant to insect attacks and therefore represent wishes for a healthy mind and body for the students. The historical Jeonju Hyanggyo compound is currently utilized as a space for the instruction of local children in traditional ethics and values. Equipped with natural views of striking beauty, it is also well known as a filming set and a spot for romantic dates. Rituals for Confucius are observed biannually in spring and autumn.

Omokdae and Imokdae: The Roots of the Joseon Dynasty

A stele shelter at Omokdae, where Yi Seong-gye
held a party celebrating a one-sided victory over
Japanese marauders

Omokdae is where Yi Seong-gye hosted a celebratory party in response to the passionate welcome from his Jeonju Yi clan kin as he traveled to the capital after an overwhelming victory against Japanese raiders at Mt. Hwangsan. The steep hill of Omokdae provides a bird’s eye view of Jeonju Hanok Village. A stele is erected there with an inscription handwritten by Emperor Gojong (r. 1863–1907), the 26 monarch of Joseon, reading “This is the site where King Taejo made a temporary stay.” Another stele bearing Gojong’s handwriting can be found nearby at Imokdae, the home of Taejo’s great-grandfather, posthumously titled King Mokjo, before his move to northeast Korea. The inscription on this stele means “This is the site where King Mokjo once lived.”

Hanbyeokdang, a Pavilion Perched on a Cliff

Located in eastern Jeonju, Hanbyeokdang Pavilion (Tangible Heritage No. 15 on the provincial list) stands on a steep rock face at the foot of Mt. Seungamsan. From the pavilion a view of the Jeonjucheon Stream and Mt. Namgosan can be appreciated. The pavilion enjoys a year-round flow of clean water below in the Jeonjucheon Stream, providing an additional sense of refreshment to visitors to the pavilion.

Guided Tours in Foreign Languages

Jeonju Hanok Village provides free guided tours, both in Korean and in other languages. They are currently available only for Gyeonggijeon Shrine. English-language tours are offered twice per day throughout the week at 11:00 a.m. and 2:00 p.m., and Chinese and Japanese tours are available at 11:00 a.m. and 2:00 p.m. on weekends. Entrance fees are separate. Participants assemble at the red-spiked gate in front of Gyeonggijeon Shrine and are guided through the compound for about 50 minutes.




Jeonju Hanok Village at night

Visitor Information
Address : Gyo-dong, Wansan-gu, Jeonju, Jeollabuk-do Province
Tel : +82 (0)63 222 1000
Webpage : http://transtour.jeonju.go.kr:7000/etgi