Feature
The Changing of the Guard at Gyeongbokgung Palace
By Text by An Tae-wook, Korea Cultural Heritage Foundation Photos by Korea Cultural Heritage Foundation
A re-enactment of the ceremony for appointing the head of the royal guards
Twenty Years into Its Restoration Reverberating drumbeats and a colorful array of flags regularly attract the eyes and ears of people around Gwanghwamun Gate of Gyeongbokgung Palace. It indicates that the changing of the guard ceremony is soon to take place here at the front gate of the primary palace of the Joseon Dynasty (1392–1910) with Mt. Bugaksan as a backdrop. The construction of Gyeongbokgung was completed in 1395. The main gate was named gwanghwa, meaning “light and harmony,” to express the wish that the monarch’s virtuous light would shine on the state and bring peace and prosperity. Today, the area around Gyeongbokgung has become an attractive tourist attraction and its main gate welcomes visitors from all over the world. Along with the auspicious animals painted on the ceiling of this three-portal gate, the guards standing at the front serve as symbols that safeguard the wellbeing of people visiting the palace. The Joseon palaces sustained severe damage in the first half of the 20th century during the colonial period (1910–1945) and Korean War (1950–1953). Reconstruction efforts started in 1983 with Changgyeonggung Palace, another royal residence to the east of Gyeongbokgung. At Gyeongbokgung, Heungnyemun Gate, the inner gate behind the front gate, was reconstructed in 2001, followed in 2010 by a project restoring Gwanghwamun Gate to its original appearance. The royal palaces were the main arenas for the five categories of rites (orye, “five rites”) the Joseon court regarded as central to the governance of the state. They were made up of gillye, state rites for gods associated with the peace and prosperity of the nation; garye, celebratory occasions for members of the royal family; billye, ceremonies welcoming envoys from abroad; gullye, performative rites involving the military; and hyungnye, or royal funerals. The changing of the guard was an important example of a gullye rite. Today’s changing of the guard ceremony at Gyeongbokgung Palace is a re-enactment of the Joseon-era version. This recreation of the military ceremony was launched in 2002, a time when particular concern was given to the resurrection of traditional culture prior to the hosting of the World Cup international sporting event. The changing the guard ceremony was reconstructed based on historical records created in 1469 when a dedicated official was installed to institutionalize the palace guard system. Tourism allows people to explore their sense of self by experiencing different cultures and comparing them with their own. Cultural programs can accelerate this process. The changing of the guard ceremony at Gyeongbokgung helps visitors to better appreciate the culture and history of this main palace of Joseon-era Korea and Joseon society in general.
Costumes for the head (left) and deputy head (right) of the royal guards
Royal guards safeguard the entrance of Gyeongbokgung Palace.
Color Codes at the Ceremony The changing of the guard ceremony is re-enacted two times a day at 10 a.m. and 2 p.m. by approximately 100 actors wearing traditional military costumes. This regular event offers a rare opportunity to experience the palace culture of Joseon Korea in action. Examining the clothing and symbolic colors provides an interesting perspective that can enhance the pleasure of enjoying the re-enactment. The most conspicuous element of the ceremony is the garments and accessories worn by the performers. Their clothing was recreated based on 15th-century practices found in surviving documents and artifacts. They wear gown-like upper garments, a round-rimed hat decorated with feathers, and shoes with upturned toes. Performers, particularly those
A rectangular garment known as a bangnyeong (left) and a cheollik overcoat that is pleated from the waist down (right)
portraying soldiers with higher ranks, wear an overcoat that is pleated from the waist down (cheollik) and a rectangular garment somewhat like a tunic, which is known as a bangnyeong. Their military hats (jeollip) are made from woven bamboo strips. The performers’ costumes are based on the five principal colors of the Joseon court: green/blue, red, yellow, black, and white. These five colors also symbolized the directions: the center (yellow) and the four cardinal directions. These five colors were applied in various aspects of court life from uniforms of courtiers and dancheong painting on the woodwork of palace buildings to ceremonial flags. Red and yellow in particular have traditionally represented authority in many cultures worldwide, and are still adopted as colors to decorate major state events today. Among these five colors, red can be found in the hats of the head and deputy head of the royal guards, as well as in the bangnyeong of the head and the pleated overcoat of the vicehead. A yellow circular badge is attached to the front of the hat worn by the head or the deputy head. This yellow circle shows the rank of the wearer. The pleated overcoat of the head of the guards is also made from yellow cloth, indicating his high status. Blue or green tones can be found in the bangnyeong worn by the head and in the tassels decorating his and the vice-head’s swords. Their shoes are black and white, and the collars of their upper garments are white. Besides the outfits, there are other traditional elements displayed at the ceremony. Spectators may find it pleasant to study the diverse range of flags and their decorative images as well as the weaponry carried by the performers. The cheerful and energetic music played on traditional instruments by red-garbed musicians adds further charm to the experience. International visitors to Gyeongbokgung Palace can enjoy an opportunity to deepen their understanding of cultural diversity, an important global value encouraged by UNESCO, such as through the adoption of the Universal Declaration on Cultural Diversity in 2001. The changing of the guard ceremony provides an excellent starting place for developing an interest in Korean culture and learning more about it.
